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In spring, as temperatures rise, tomato bacterial wilt, blight, and root-knot nematode disease become more prevalent. These diseases often exhibit similar symptoms on the surface, making it difficult to distinguish them at first glance. This article aims to explain the key differences between these three conditions and provide effective control measures to help farmers manage them properly. All three diseases can cause wilting in tomato plants. To identify the type of disease, cut the stem and place it in a clear glass of water. If a slimy substance oozes out, it’s likely bacterial wilt. For blight, the wilting is more gradual. In the early stages of root-knot nematode infection, the above-ground parts may grow poorly, with smaller leaves compared to healthy plants. The fibrous roots may decrease in number, and some nematodes may form “bead-like” structures on the roots. Others may be found along the main and lateral roots, causing damage to the cortical tissue and leading to a loose root structure. Bacterial wilt is most noticeable through plant wilting. When you open the base of an infected stem, you’ll see the vascular bundles have turned brown. This damage prevents the plant from transporting water and nutrients, leading to wilting. If left untreated, repeated wilting can result in plant death. To control bacterial wilt, root irrigation with agents like DT plus neemectin or agricultural streptomycin combined with a rooting agent is recommended. Affected plants should not be discarded in the greenhouse; instead, they should be buried deep outside and disinfected. Bacterial wilt spreads quickly through water, so flooded areas should be avoided. Applying growth regulators like Fengshou No. 1, Yunda 120, or Duoxin can help restore plant health. It’s also important to reduce nitrogen fertilizer use and increase organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to boost plant resistance. Wilt typically appears after planting. Early signs include yellowing of lower leaves, which eventually turn brown and die. The dead leaves remain on the stem, and sometimes only one side of the stem shows yellowing while the other remains normal. As the disease progresses, the yellowing moves upward, leaving only the top leaves alive. In mild cases, only the lower leaves are affected, and the rest of the plant appears normal. The roots may show brown rot or local necrosis, and cutting the stem base reveals yellowish-brown vascular tissue. Unlike bacterial wilt, this condition causes leaf yellowing. In wet conditions, pink mold may appear at the base of the stem. Control methods include rotating crops with pungent vegetables like onions or garlic for 3–4 years, using disease-free seeds treated in 52°C warm water for 30 minutes, or applying 0.4% carbendazim. Proper ventilation and soil temperature management are essential. In the early stages, 50% carbendazim diluted 1000 times can be used to irrigate the roots every 7–10 days. Root-knot nematode disease primarily affects the fibrous and lateral roots of tomatoes. Small milky white nematodes can be seen in the root galls. New roots formed on these galls can become re-infected, leading to further damage. Infected plants may appear stunted or even prematurely wither. Control strategies include improving field management, ensuring proper watering and fertilization to strengthen plant resistance. Infected plants should be removed, burned, or buried deeply. During the growing season, mixtures like avermectin with Fengshui No. 1, Jianzhibao fertilizer, and Avi organic fertilizer can be applied. Chemical control during planting involves using point application of Jianguo fertilizer or Avi organic fertilizer. In the off-season, lime nitrogen can be used for high-temperature fumigation, or strict disinfectants like bromochlor can be applied to the greenhouse.

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