The pressure gauge is a common instrument in our life. It mainly uses the elastic element as a sensitive element to measure and indicate the pressure above the ambient pressure.
It is widely used in our lives and involves major industries. Basically, he can be seen in all industrial processes and scientific research fields.
As a member of the society, we will have more or less exposure to a lot of pressure gauges. Therefore, we should develop a pair of eye-catching and well-recognized pressure gauges. I will introduce the pressure gauge testing procedures below.
First, appearance inspection
1. Before we get the pressure gauge, we should seriously look at the packaging, identify whether the origin of the pressure gauge is a regular way, and whether the packaging box is clearly marked.
2, After getting the pressure gauge, we should be very hungry to observe the surface of the pressure gauge, observe whether the appearance is smooth and even, no rust marks, no bad plating, and the welding place should be smooth and beautiful.
3, reading part, whether the reading is clearly visible, transparent cover is tainted. 4
4. Zero position, pressure gauge with limited nails. When there is no pressure, the pointer should be close to the stop pin, and the pressure gauge for infinite nailing should be within the zero mark when there is no pressure.
5. If the pressure gauge is filled with liquid, the liquid shall be clear and transparent, free of impurities or floating objects, and the liquid level shall be located at 0.25D-0.3D above the center of the case (D is the outside diameter of the instrument) and in a 60-degree incubator No leakage.
Second, the meter
1. Select an appropriate calibrator. The absolute value of the allowable error of the calibrator should not be greater than 1/4 of the absolute value of the allowable error of the gauge being tested.
2, standard instruments can be used spring tube precision pressure gauge and vacuum gauge, piston pressure gauge, piston vacuum pressure gauge
Third, the indication error, return error, and tapping displacement test
1. Indication error verification method, the pressure meter's indicating value verification is carried out according to the marking line marked with a number of digits. The timing is gradually and steadily stepped up (or stepped down). When the indication value reaches the upper limit of detection, the pressure source is cut off. Pressure 3MIN, and then press the original test point to step down (or boost) in reverse order.
2, return error, the same point of time, in the step-up (or step-down) and step-down (or step-up) detection, the specified absolute value of the allowable error.
3, tapping displacement, for each inspection, at the step-up (or step-down) and step-down (or step-up) inspection timing, the value of the indication change caused by the lightweight case is not greater than the absolute value of the specified allowable error 1/2.
4. Indication error: For each verification point, during the step-up (or step-down) and step-down (or step-up) detection, the difference between the front and rear display case of the lightweight case and the standard device shall meet the requirements.
Actually, a wiper assembly that refuses to move might have a simple blown fuse. But usually fuses don't blow on their own. Even at full stall, the current draw of the motor should be well below the fuse's rating. If the fuse is blown, odds are there's something else wrong, like a shorted wiper-motor armature or faulty wiring anywhere along the harness between the motor and the switch. Even a mechanical problem like a seized bushing can make a fuse eventually fail.
The fuse is okay, or you've replaced it with one that has the appropriate amp rating. There's still no action? With the wipers and ignition on, whack the motor assembly with the handle of a screwdriver or a rubber mallet. If that gets things moving, you've got a bad commutator or an open winding on the armature. When the motor parks, if the brushes are sitting on the bad segment, no current flows. Whacking the whole business smartly can sometimes jolt things into motion. Because there are often a dozen windings on the armature, the motor runs fine until the next time it comes to rest on the bad spot.
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